Asian skincare products are everywhere these days. While they were once products exclusively sold in Asia that skincare enthusiasts had to hunt down to import to the US, they’re now being sold at the likes of Sephora, Ulta, and even Amazon, not to mention marketed on social media for English audiences around the world. So what’s the hype about, and how are Asian skincare products different from those we’re used to seeing in the West?
What makes Asian skincare different?
Asian skincare focuses on preventing skincare concerns before they start, whereas Western skincare takes a more aggressive approach with ingredients. Asian skincare products are known for placing a focus on hydrating, moisturizing, and brightening the skin to promote a stronger skin barrier overall, which helps prevent skin concerns such as signs of aging, pimples, and uneven skin tone from happening in the first place. They achieve this by using formulas high in natural antioxidants that have low risk of causing skin sensitivities.
Asian skincare serums and toners are especially known for focusing on one or two main ingredients in a product and layering them is encouraged. In comparison, many western skincare serums are known to contain multiple ingredients with the intention of targeting many concerns at once and being the only serum you would need. While this sounds like it can get expensive, I find that many Asian skincare products tend to cost less per product compared to American skincare products!
Lastly, Asian skincare places a huge emphasis on sun protection. Most brands offer their own sunscreen in various formulas for different skin types. In addition to the typical sunscreen lotion used as the last step in your skincare routine, Asian skincare brands also offer other unique products with SPF like SPF powders, sprays, and sticks.
Essential Ingredients in Asian Skincare
So, what special skincare ingredients do Asian skincare products use that make them different from other skincare?
Rice Extract
Rice is naturally high in over 100 antioxidant compounds, including ferulic acid and omega-3 fatty acids which are essential for skin health. It is mostly used for softening and conditioning the skin which is why you’ll most likely find it in products like hydrating toners and moisturizers. Rice extract is also considered a very mild ingredient making it ideal for all skin types including sensitive skin types especially those prone to acne or eczema. Rice in skincare can come from the extract of the bran removed during the hulling process or from fermented rice, which has even more benefits from the fermentation.
Green Tea (Cameillia sinesis)
Green tea is one of the most potent skincare ingredients, essentially containing the most “bang for your buck” antioxidant-wise. Green tea contains polyphenols which are antioxidant compounds that have shown significant results in repairing sun damage and age spots. Green tea also has astringent properties to help reduce oil production and in turn giving the appearance of smaller pores. It’s often found in cleansers, serums, and toners.
Centella Asiatica (Cica)
Centella asiatica first gained popularity in South Korea where it has become the main ingredient in moisturizers and creams that repair damaged, compromised skin. Cica has antioxidants and is especially rich in amino acids which help strengthen the skin barrier and help restore elasticity and bounce to skin that’s been damaged from over exfoliation, UV damage and other stressors. It’s gentle enough for sensitive skin types such as those with acne or eczema.
Soy Extract
Soy extract is rich in antioxidants and isoflavones, a type of polyphenol whose studies have shown help fade hyperpigmentation from acne, sun damage, aging, and other sources. It’s believed that the isoflavones from soy work to reduce uneven skin tone by reducing the excess transfer of melanin to skin’s surface, which can in turn visibly reduce hyperpigmentation. Soy extract can be found in all types of skincare products, from cleansers and toners to serums and moisturizers and even face masks.
Snail Mucin (snail secretion filtrate)
Snail mucin is the filtered secretion from snails that comes from a snail’s foot to help them move and adhere to surfaces. In other words, its that slimy trail of goo you see behind a snail. It’s rich in elastin, collagen, glycolic acid, allantoin, and peptides, all powerful ingredients that restore skin elasticity and strengthen the skin barrier. Studies have shown that snail mucin helps reverse and prevent signs of aging especially by repairing damage from the sun. Due to its thick, viscous texture, snail mucin is usually found in toners that are rich and hydrating or moisturizers and creams.
Arbutin
Arbutin is a brightening antioxidant that can be derived naturally from plants or made synthetically. Studies have shown that arbutin has powerful abilities to brighten skin and even out skin tone due to the fact that it breaks down into Hydroquinone, which can stop excess melanin production. Unlike other ingredients that help brighten skin such as retinoids and acids, Arbutin is gentle and lightens without causing skin sensitivity. Arbutin can be found in serums, toners, and moisturizers.
How to add Asian Skincare Products into your skincare routine
The great thing about Asian skincare products is that unlike Western skin products that focus on strength and potency, Asian skincare focuses on results with long-term skin health in mind over quick results at the expense of compromised skin. This means that there are fewer contraindications with Asian skincare ingredients as they are mostly antioxidants that can be combined.
The only advice I have for adding a new Asian skincare product into your skincare routine is to start small. Before going all out, introduce one new product at a time. For instance after cleansing with your regular cleanser you could try an Asian beauty serum like COSRX Snail Mucin Repair Serum before applying your usual moisturizer. If you have especially sensitive or compromised skin, try a soothing, redness reducing moisturizer like the IUNIK Centella Calming Gel Cream.
Do I need to layer Asian skincare products differently than western ones?
No, you do not need to do anything different when it comes to the order of your skincare, but some Asian skincare products may look a little different than what you’re used to. Asian toners in particular are famous for having a different texture than their western counterparts.
In the West, especially the US, toners have a reputation for being drying and are typically made to control oil. On the other hand, Asian toners are hydrating and often thicker and more viscous than western toners.
The ROHTO Hadalabo Shirojun Premium Lotion is a great example of this and contains the aforementioned arbutin, a favorite ingredient of mine. While it’s labeled a lotion it’s actually more of a thick toner used before your moisturizer to seal everything in.
Regardless of what products or skincare ingredients you decide to try when choosing an Asian Skincare product, you can almost never go wrong. Afterall, that’s the beauty in choosing skincare products that focus on prevention rather than repair.
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